A sweater knitted with raglan from the top (top-down) or bottom (bottom-up) fits perfectly if the measurements are right. But how many stitches do you need to cast on? And how often do you increase so that the neckline and sleeves fit perfectly? With this step-by-step guide and the right formulas, you can keep track of everything without the frustration of hours of frogging. <\/p>\n\n
Before you get started, you face the fundamental question: “Should I knit from the top or from the bottom?”<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Top-Down Raglan<\/strong> Bottom-Up Raglan<\/strong> Important when choosing a pattern<\/strong> Regardless of which direction you choose, a gauge swatch is essential. If you don’t know how a gauge swatch works, you can read about it in my journal.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n It’s best to measure a favorite sweater that fits well or measure directly on your body (including some room for movement \/ positive ease, depending on the desired fit).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Total cast-on = [Neck circumference in cm] \/ 10 x [Number of stitches per 10 cm]<\/p>\n\n\n\n The total stitches are divided, e.g., with the help of stitch markers, into:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Example<\/strong><\/em> Now check the result by adding the stitches for the back, front, two sleeves, and the raglan lines. The result should match your total cast-on. If it differs slightly due to rounding, you can adjust the total cast-on slightly and add or subtract stitches from the front\/back pieces. <\/p>\n\n\n\n 32 + 32 + 14 + 14 + 8 = 100<\/p>\n\n\n\n Now place the stitch markers (SM) as follows:<\/p>\n\n\n\n In every 2nd round (for stockinette stitch), 1 stitch is increased before and after each of the 4 raglan lines (that’s a total of 8 stitches per increase row).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Continue knitting until the raglan length<\/strong> (measured from the shoulder) is reached and the circumference under the armpits (front + back + both sleeve stitches) fits comfortably around your upper body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Now place the sleeve stitches on a scrap yarn or another circular needle and set them aside. For a better fit under the armpits, I recommend casting on a few new stitches (e.g., 2\u20136 stitches) in the first round (on each side of the body and the sleeves). <\/p>\n\n\n\n Now you can continue knitting the body and the sleeves separately downwards. Once you’re finished, the cast-on stitches from the body and sleeves still need to be sewn together. Done! <\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n When the body and sleeves have reached their height up to the armpit, all parts are slid or knitted onto one large circular needle. First the stitches from the front piece, then one sleeve, then the back piece, then the second sleeve. <\/p>\n\n\n\n At the transitions (under the armpits), leave a few stitches unknitted or bind them together to avoid the typical “armpit hole.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n From here, you continue knitting in rounds upwards and do the counterpart to the top-down raglan. In every 2nd row, decrease before and after the 4 raglan lines (knit 2 stitches together each time). <\/p>\n\n\n\n Since you are working from the bottom up here, the sleeve length is already fixed. The decreases continue evenly until the desired neckline is reached. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n Pay attention to how you work your increases (top-down) or decreases (bottom-up) at the lines. Twisted increases from the bar between stitches prevent unsightly holes. Additionally, increases and decreases can be knitted leaning to the right or left, which creates a more harmonious look. <\/p>\n\nThe Preparation<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Top-Down Raglan<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Step A: Calculating the cast-on<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n
Step B: Dividing the stitches<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n
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Step C: Increases and raglan length<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
Bottom-Up Raglan<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Step A: Working the body and sleeves separately<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
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Step B: The joining<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
Step C: Decreases for the raglan yoke<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
MEEMEA Tips<\/h3>\n\n